Accustomed to early evening dinners, we arrive at Algodon Mansion (Montevideo 1647) ahead of the crowd. The hamburger and selection of empanadas are our favorite items on the menu. The Algodon Estate is a wine empire. Thus, testing Malbec, especially at Mansion, is obligatory. We evaluate the taste, the waiter waiting for nods of approval. Apologizing for the inconvenience, we inquiry after our favorite Chandon, and he delivers. Before embarking on our westward walk home along the Avenida del Libertador, we descend to the basement. Admiring the uniformed wine cellar through the glass is time well spent.
14 October 2016
Teatro Colón first opened its doors at Cerrito 628 in 1908. The first venue, located on the site of the current Banco de la Nación Argentina (at Sarmiento 101), closed in 1888. The present house, designed in the eclectic style, was built by three different architects over a span of twenty years. One of the most renowned and acoustically sound theaters in the world, Teatro Colón was named a national historic monument in 1989. We only needed to circle the perimeter to gain a sense of the house’s grandness.
12 October 2016
The Parisian ambiance lured us to the grand Café Tortoni, but the tango show was cause for our extended stay. Founded in 1858 by a French immigrant, the café is quintessentially porteño. The irresistible combination of wood, marble, glass, and mirror elements evoke a European flair, like the tango itself. The performance, the establishment’s foremost asset is held in the basement. We are part of an intimate crowd, modest in number and delightfully international. The singer, lit by spotlight through the dimness, is an interactive host. As an audience, we respond to his survey of our home countries. When a member of the crowd declares himself the representative of los Estados Unidos, A.C. and I silently evaluate his inexperienced pronunciation. The dancers, who seem to have no fault, embrace, whip, hook, and sweep to the narration of the singer’s storyline. They glide, kick, and float across the stage effortlessly in unison. At the close of the spectacle, we spend many minutes photographing ourselves on stage. Filled to the brim with chocolate, churros, and Chandon, we walk east on Avenida de Mayo, still in the midst of the dance.
Labels: Buenos Aires